Ramen Linterna

A single paper lantern hangs over the door of this twelve-seat counter, and after dark it glows like a beacon on Tabasco. Inside, the pork broth has been simmering for eighteen hours, and steam fogs up the windows by ten.

The tonkotsu is rich and milky, with chashu pork, a soft egg and thin noodles. The house favorite is the spicy miso, finished with a chipotle chili oil that gives it a smoky Mexico City accent. There is a clear vegetable shoyu for anyone skipping meat, crisp gyoza, and chicken karaage with lime and chili salt.

It is the late-night fix for half of Roma Norte: bartenders after their shift, couples after the cinema, friends after a party. Expect a short wait on weekends; the line moves quickly.