Chocolatería El Molinillo Azul

The blue wooden molinillo hanging over the counter gives this little chocolate workshop its name, and the staff still use one to whip every cup. Cacao arrives from small farms in Tabasco and Chiapas, then gets roasted, cracked and stone-ground in the back room.

Order a hot chocolate made with water in the Oaxacan way, or with milk if you prefer it rich, and watch the froth rise as the molinillo spins between the barista’s palms. The tasting flight lines up three single-origin squares with notes of dried fruit, coffee and flowers. On weekends there are chocolate tamales and thick champurrado.

Guided tastings happen on Saturday and Sunday at noon, and children love grinding the nibs. Tablets wrapped in plain paper make easy gifts to take home.