Elotes de la Esquina

Every evening at six a cart rolls up to the corner by Parque México, the lid comes off a big steaming pot and the smell of corn and epazote drifts across the park. Elotes de la Esquina has been here for twenty years.

Choose an elote on the cob, speared on a stick and painted with mayonnaise, rolled in crumbly cheese and dusted with chili, or esquites: kernels scooped into a cup with broth, lime and the same toppings. The bold order is esquites with tuétano, roasted bone marrow stirred through the corn. There is atole de elote for cooler nights.

Dog walkers, joggers and couples on their way to dinner all stop here. It is cash only and the cart leaves at half past eleven.