Taquería Doña Luz

Three generations, one trompo. Doña Luz started carving al pastor on this corner when Orizaba still had tram tracks, and her grandsons now work the spit in the same red aprons. Pork marinated overnight in guajillo, achiote and a splash of pineapple vinegar turns slowly over charcoal until the edges crackle.

Order four al pastor “con todo” and watch the pineapple fly from the top of the spit straight onto your tortilla. The tortillas are blue corn, pressed and griddled a few steps away, and the salsa bar runs from a gentle avocado verde to a smoky morita that bites back. Eat standing at the steel counter with the rest of Roma Norte: office workers at 2 p.m., families at 8, and the after-party crowd at 1 a.m.

Cash is easiest, though the card machine comes out after 6 p.m. Ask for a gringa if you want melted cheese.