Verde Milpa

A milpa is the old Mexican field where corn, beans and squash grow together, and Verde Milpa cooks from that idea. The menu is entirely vegetarian and changes with whatever the farms in the Valle de México are harvesting.

In the rainy season it means squash blossoms folded into blue-corn quesadillas and huitlacoche, the inky corn mushroom, steamed into tamales. In the dry months there are tlayudas of heirloom corn, roasted squash with pumpkin-seed sauce, and a big salad of purslane and beans. Breakfast is chilaquiles verdes with a fried egg, and every dish marked with a leaf can be made vegan.

The patio is shaded by a jacaranda and there is room for prams, so weekends bring families from the plaza a block away. Ask about the corn of the week: they keep a basket of cobs by the door to show which variety is on the comal.