Casona Tres Metates

The three metates at the entrance are not decoration. Every mole served at this courtyard restaurant on Francisco Sosa is still ground on volcanic stone, chilies, nuts, seeds and chocolate worked by hand into a paste.

Order the mole tasting to understand the range: a sweet, rust-colored poblano, a near-black mole negro scented with hoja santa, a nutty pipián, a fruity manchamanteles and a bright green mole with fresh herbs. Each comes with warm tortillas and rice. The poblano with turkey is the Sunday favorite, and enchiladas de mole are on all week.

Tables sit around a fountain under bougainvillea, and Sunday lunch runs long with grandparents and children at the same table. Book ahead using the link below, and finish with champurrado and pan de yema.