Mariscos El Güero Feliz

The plastic awning is striped, the chairs are folding and the tables are crowded by 2 p.m., and that is exactly the point. El Güero Feliz does Pacific-style seafood with a lunchtime party atmosphere that spills onto the pavement.

Start with the tuna tostada: crisp corn, thin slices of raw tuna, chipotle mayonnaise, fried leeks and a squeeze of lime. Then share a bowl of aguachile, raw shrimp cured in lime with cucumber, red onion and either a sharp green chili sauce or a dark, smoky black one. The campechana cocktail is served in a tall glass with saltines on the side.

Order a michelada or a cold beer and settle in, because lunch here is a two-hour affair. Families come at weekends, and there are high chairs and smaller fish tacos for children. The kitchen closes at six.