Desayunos La Jacaranda

Wedged between flower stalls and fruit sellers, La Jacaranda is a long counter with stools painted purple, a two-ring stove and three cooks who never stop moving. It has served breakfast to the neighborhood since the mid-eighties.

The chilaquiles are the order: fried tortilla chips simmered in red or green salsa until just soft, topped with cream, onion, fresh cheese and an optional fried egg. Huevos rancheros come on a crisp tortilla with beans, and enfrijoladas are folded tortillas swimming in black-bean sauce. For something lighter, there is fruit with granola and honey and a jugo verde of nopal, pineapple and celery.

Weekends get busy after ten, with families heading to the plaza. It is cash only and closes at 12:30, when the kitchen starts to clean down.