Tortas Don Polo

Don Polo opens his shutter at three in the morning, when the street is dark and the first customers are taxi drivers finishing a shift and bakers starting theirs. By seven the queue is students and office workers, and by noon the bread has run out.

The classic order is a guajolota: a whole tamal, green or red, tucked inside a crusty bolillo roll. It sounds excessive and tastes perfect at dawn. There are also tortas of breaded milanesa, ham and avocado, or chilaquiles squeezed into bread for the truly hungry. Wash it down with orange juice squeezed while you wait, or a cup of thick, chocolatey champurrado.

It is cash only, standing room only and very quick. Don Polo himself still takes the money and calls out every order.