Birria Los Primos

Two cousins, one huge pot, two days a week. The beef for Birria Los Primos goes into a chili-dark adobo of guajillo, ancho, cumin and clove on Friday night and cooks slowly until the meat falls apart by Saturday morning.

Order your tacos dorados if you want them crisp: the tortillas are dipped in the red fat from the top of the pot, filled with birria and cheese and griddled until they crunch. Every order comes with a clay cup of consomé, the spiced broth, topped with onion and coriander for dipping and sipping. Locals buy birria by the kilo for family lunch.

Tables are long and shared, children are everywhere on Sunday morning and the music is loud. Get there before noon: when the pot is empty, they close.